After over two weeks in Colombia, the land of the corn arepa, I was willing to do anything for a slice of me-friendly pizza. It couldn’t just be any pizza. It had to be a perfect one. And given I had total dibs over the dinner location that night, I turned to my special list of “must-try” places – made up of recommendations from gluten-free and non gluten-free pals alike. Mamma Dough – top of the list – had first been mentioned to me by my Peckham-residing best friend, who now, thanks to my obsession for gluten-free delights, has a sharp eye for new free-from options.
The unassuming and comforting wooden decor as soon as you enter Mamma Dough tells you “here we focus on the food.” The restaurant, which now has branches in Brixton and Honor Oak Park as well as Peckham, relies on a selection of the freshest vegetables, herbs and produce to create what many have told me is the best and most economical pizza in South London. And that’s just the regular sourdough pizza.
Mamma Dough uses gluten free bases from The Lab Pizza – a company based in Hertfordshire whose top aim is to make “healthy” pizzas for the public which a lot of glutinos will be happy to hear is labelled as “guilt free.” A constant worry of mine is often the sugar and salt content in a lot of gluten free products so to hear that this was a healthy and yet blissfully delicious alternative to a traditional pizza base was definitely a bonus.
I ordered one of two daily specials, topped with mushrooms, olives, artichokes and Italian ham and what arrived wasn’t just your regular gluten free La Reine. On first glance the crust was not flat but had spontaneous pockets of air, just like pizzas I remember from Naples when I was 13 years old. The chefs had also been generous with the toppings – I immediately approved of the sauce to cheese ratio. The taste was glorious and there was none of that slightly dusty edge that I know all too well from eating gluten free pizzas for the past six years. Even my boyfriend was impressed, and was happy to sample an entire slice before going back to his perfectly woodfired sourdough base.
I was unable to make my way through the entire dish and so silently rejoiced that I would have leftovers to eat the following day (cold pizza is a delicacy). We had indulged in a starter of Burratina, a mozzarella from the southern region of Puglia, which has a creamy centre that is perfect when spread on gluten free bread or simply eaten with freshly sliced tomatoes and basil.
I am dying to go back for more. Since eating at Mamma Dough, I’ve also spotted The Lab Pizza oven-ready pizzas in shops including The Food Hall at Selfridges department store in central London, so will look forward to trying that at home.
Gluten Free Suitcase Tip: Have a pre-dinner drink at Beer Rebellion a few doors down where they offer a selection of wine and gluten-free ciders.
179 Queen’s Road
London SE15 2ND
Tel: 020 7635 3470