Category: eat

Plot: Small Plates to Tempt Your Inner Carnivore

Everyday when I get off the tube at Tooting Broadway, I think to myself – I am home. Not only physically but emotionally. The sights, smells and sounds are a hectic and eclectic mix which all harmoniously come together to create what Lonely Planet this summer named as one of 10 of the world’s “coolest neighbourhoods to visit right now.” While I don’t think Tooting is quite there yet, I definitely delight in inviting friends from near and far to visit and explore the surroundings with me, knowing that there is something for absolutely everyone here.

Growing up near Brixton has already made me a witness to one major London marketplace transformation. Judging from the wide array of trendy eateries popping up alongside the traditional Pakistani and Sri Lankan restaurants surrounding my Tooting abode, I now believe I’m witnessing another. Plot is but one of many new hot spots which no matter the day of the week is always bustling, with all seats both at the elegant marble bar and at lower tables permanently occupied by hungry patrons.

The restaurant opened its market stall to the public this year with a kitchen headed up by former Roux at Parliament Square chef Giles Elstob and an emphasis on locally sourced produce. The concept is small plates, with staff recommending two to three plates each. This week I ventured there for the second time since its opening with fond memories of gluten free friendly options and a kitchen willing to adapt. I was delighted to learn upon being seated that five out of six plates on the small menu were naturally gluten free with the final option – Smoked Salmon, Beetroot & Douglas Fir Mayo – easily made me-friendly by removing the Treacle Soda Bread.

I opted for the London Burrata cheese – a long-time favourite of mine – served with walnut pesto and crispy Oxspring’s ham, the latter of which added a delectably salty edge to a traditionally creamy and understated flavour.

This I shared with my partner, alongside a Cured Beef Carpaccio with the most decadent and flavourful celeriac remoulade I think I have ever tasted. The carpaccio came drizzled with truffle mayo and pickled girolles.

For a heartier plate, we decided on the Roast Shetland Cod, atop a bed of creamy butternut squash puree and sea vegetables. Everything was delicious and beautifully put together on an array of ceramic and white enamel plates with that familiar farm kitchen-style blue rim.

While I enjoyed another relatively carefree night at Plot, a friend I dined with was sadly not privy to the same experience as a vegetarian and was left with incredibly limited options. Amazingly, the kitchen had only one entirely vegetarian friendly plate on offer: Charred Hispi Cabbage. While another dish was adaptable, there appeared to be no sides or additional vegetables that the restaurant was willing to improvise with to create an additional small plate.

After much debate, our waiter finally got word that some fried potatoes from a meat dish could and would be brought to the table as a small dish themselves, but we were told that the kitchen did not want to “just throw other ingredients together.”

The vegetarian plates which arrived my friend said were flavourful, but by that point fatigue from negotiating choices had already clouded the atmosphere around the table. As a meat eater through and through, that night I counted my blessings for having to cut out only one thing and one thing alone: gluten. To appeal to a wider array of eaters however, I realised that Plot’s “modern” kitchen still has some distance to go.

Plot
70-72 Broadway Market
29 Tooting High Street
London SW17 0RL
Tel: 020 8767 2639
(Tables bookable over the phone or via Opentable)

The Spotted Cow: A 5 Star Gluten Free Fish and Chips Experience

As the summer drew to an end in the UK, we were invited by my friend to take a couple days out of the hustle and bustle of London for some sea air and long dog walks on the beach. I was promised that there was an enormous Sainsbury’s close to where we would be staying in Rustington, West Sussex, and managed my expectations for much else in terms of gluten free food.

Unsurpisingly, Saturday night came around and the fatigue from the day’s outdoor activities left no one with any energy to rustle up a meal. I did what I never usually do and allowed a restaurant to be chosen without taking a glance at the menu myself and just went along with the plan. I knew (or hoped) that in the worst-case scenario, a steak or grilled fish with salad could most probably be conjured.

Our taxi pulled up to The Spotted Cow – a charming, country pub in the heart of Angmering village. We were led through the bar to the cosy dining room where the tables were covered in white linen and decked with candles. Immediately presented with the regular menu, I held my breath as I asked the waitress what, if any, my gluten free options would be. Within a flash, she had been and gone and placed a gluten free menu in my hands. Utterly gobsmacked at my immense luck, I perused the menu which had options for all three courses, including fresh fried seafood.

Within 30 seconds I had set my sights on gluten free fish and chips for a main course and so opted for the pub’s fresh soup of the day with fluffy, toasted gluten free bread on the side. A warming bowl of tomato and basil soup arrived and served as a good stomach liner for the fried indulgence I was about to experience.

The fish arrived, dominating much of the long dinner plate. The batter was light-coloured, piping hot and had extra crunch when I broke a piece off the end of the fillet to test the texture. The helpful waitress told me that the batter was made with a gluten free flour blend, including tapioca and rice flour which gave what can usually be quite heavy and greasy, a lighter, crunchier feel. The chips served on the side were large cut and crispy but of course my main focus in this case was the fish which conquered me about half way through. I have heard many with gluten allergies and coeliac disease describe just how unaccustomed their bodies have become to heavy food and I totally sympathise. In this case however, I was truly upset I could not finish given the kitchen at The Spotted Cow had got the taste and texture of the battered fish spot on.

Desserts were definitely available on the gluten free menu including a selection of local ice cream flavours, but, I was in no position to eat any more after two delicious courses. I would like to say next time I will choose something else for a main, but after that batter I can’t make any promises! A charming and reasonably priced restaurant, The Spotted Cow is a must visit for any seaside adventurers in search of a good feed at lunch or dinnertime.

The Spotted Cow
1 High Street, Angmering
Littlehampton
BN16 4AW
Tel: 01903 783919
(Tables bookable over the phone or via the pub website)

Bistrotheque: A Gluten Free Secret Worth Shouting About

When it comes to choosing a dinner location, I am usually guilty of opting for French cuisine over anything else. I’ve been called unoriginal in this regard but I never regret my decision when I’m happily sat with my steak frites or moules marinière. When it came to selecting an eatery for my partner’s birthday, I knew it had to be special and silently rejoiced when I glanced at my “must visit list”. Not only was the top choice French-inspired, but a highly rated, chic one at that.

Tucked away in the backstreets of Hackney Borough, Bistrotheque has become somewhat of an East London establishment since it opened its doors over a decade ago. I remember the reviews that were published around its launch date and how it had been painted as some sort of dining speak easy, whose location was well known but never really spoken about. Bistrotheque has certainly maintained its air of mystery over the years however, as we walked back up and down Wadeson street two or three times before realising where it was. With no sign on the outside, you do not know you have arrived until you are up several flights of stairs in a warehouse-type building, facing an impeccably long cocktail bar and surrounded by well presented staff.

The restaurant is modestly decorated, dimly lit and could be either in Paris or Brooklyn, depending on your mood that evening. We were sat at our table, and within minutes I was presented with a basket of freshly grilled gluten free bread, thanks to Opentable who provide an “extra information” box when booking any restaurant through their website.

While I no longer not sit down and peruse restaurant menus without any sort of direction from a waiter on what can and cannot be gluten free, I thought I would take my chances and select things I would absolutely love to try just for the hell of it. This obviously came with the great risk that I would then be told by waiting staff I could not in fact have my dream meal and instead some grilled fish or salad. Amazingly for me, my prayers were answered and the signature twice baked soufflé with broad beans and black truffle just happened to be gluten free, with a corn flour base instead of that of the wheat variety. This scored immediate points for Bistrotheque who within minutes had already proven that not every establishment opts for the more well known version.

The soufflé arrived perfectly cooked, rich and moreish inside its own dainty Le Creuset dish, pairing perfectly with an extra chilled glass of Picpoul de Pinet: my favourite white wine thanks to my mother’s teachings.

For a main course I selected the beef rump heart with wild mushrooms and smoked butter, which came cooked a perfect pink and beautifully arranged like some sort of meat fan. My only regret was its size, which after an entire cheese soufflé was slightly daunting. A fresh gem salad eased the struggle slightly and reminded me that my meal was not entirely carnivorous. The smoked butter added a delicious twist to a traditional steak, and gave the array of dainty mushrooms extra flavour and moisture.

Because declining dessert simply is not an option when anyone is celebrating, I shared a pannacotta with the birthday boy which came surrounded by fresh strawberries, pistachios and light green leaves. I had not been short of options however, and could have also indulged in a crème brulee or an apple sorbet with East London Liquor Company vodka.  

We tottered out to our Uber well fed, watered and exceptionally impressed by the staff and kitchen who exhibited a high standard of knowledge of allergies and dietary requirements. If anything I was made to feel like a regular diner, with no follow up questions asked (the ole’ “is it an allergy or a preference?” chestnut fantastically was avoided). I already cannot wait to return to Bistrotheque for brunch which on the weekends showcases dishes likes Eggs Benedict and Avotoast as well as some of the restaurant’s own classics from it’s A La Carte Menu including my trusty soufflé – you would be crazy to miss it!

Bistrotheque
23-27 Wadeson Street
London E2 9DR
Tel: 020 8983 7900
(Tables bookable via the restaurant website or Opentable)

Kind State of Mind: A Vegan Supperclub for All Seasons

It is not often that meat eaters come across vegan cuisine they consider “enjoyable.” I’ve heard complaints of texture, lack of flavour, or even more simply: “it’s just not meat” or “that’s not really cheese.” I suppose for a long time too I was one of those sceptics, sticking to what I knew best – animal-sourced protein. What it boiled down to however, was simply that I had not found the right vegan food. After being lucky enough to attend a 100% plant based supperclub hosted by the wonderful Ellie – blogger and creator of Kind State of Mind – I can now say that fabulous vegan cuisine exists and I’ve tried it.

Many of you reading this will have come across Kind State of Mind before, on Instagram and beyond. Ellie is known for her innovative sweet treats, healthy meal ideas and even vegan “junk food”- all of which are stunningly photographed for our viewing pleasure. More recently however, Ellie has ventured into the world of vegan cheese making. “As a previous cheese aficionado I wasn’t willing to accept that I would just have to go without one of my favourite foods so I began experimenting,” Ellie told me, adding that after receiving great feedback from vegan and non vegan friends alike, she began to make more.

Ellie has been so successful in her attempts to find a vegan’s answer to camembert, brie and other favourites, that she will soon be selling them to the public. “I realised there was a real opportunity, not just to provide vegans with a tasty food product, but to offer an alternative to my fellow omni buddies,” she said, explaining that cheese is too often quoted as the main “barrier” people have to switching to a vegan diet. Kindaco was launched this summer and was the star of the summer supper club, which was held at 10 Cable Street: a chic, vegan space tucked away in East London.

While most of Ellie’s dishes aren’t naturally gluten free, I was given the all-star treatment, and offered an entirely me-friendly version of the menu that night in East London. “Cooking food that is vegan and gluten free is not hard at all,” Ellie confirmed, pointing to the fact that many foods are now marketed as being both vegan and gluten free, which indicates there is a clear overlap in the two dietary needs.

To start the evening, we were greeted with welcome cocktails and a selection of cheese dips, crudites, tortillas and a helping or charred Padrón peppers for good measure. This is the moment at which I made a brand new friend: Vegan Nacho cheese. Particularly tangy and moreish, this potted dip is surprisingly made from cashews – an ingredient which I, in my ignorance, never suspected could be turned into something so reminiscent of that overly indulgent sauce, often dolloped on Doritos at cinema refreshment stands.

The starter that evening was a homemade Italian Panzanella Salad – a Tuscan salad of bread and tomatoes, particularly popular in the summer months. Ellie prepped mine with a gluten free loaf which was delicious, having soaked up the homemade tangy dressing. The salad was topped with a herbed feta cheese, which is almond-based and cultured, helping give it that cheesy tang that is usually associated with Greek feta.

Already starting to feel happily full, we moved on to the main. A real treat not only for the vegan diners that night but for me too – Brie en croute with cranberry and fig jam – enveloped by a perfectly crisp and flaky gluten free pastry. This was served alongside garlicky kale Caesar and a fresh, flavourful potato salad with caper and dill dressing – the main component of which is a homemade vegan mayonnaise that you can make yourself at home by following Ellie’s recipe.

Now well and truly stuffed, I managed to find room for dessert immediately upon spotting Ellie’s beautiful array of meringues topped with coconut whipped cream and fresh berries. The meringues are made using aquafaba or chickpea water – an ingredient that has swept across the vegan nation like a storm. The meringues were perfectly crunchy on the outside, with a soft, chewy centre, set off perfectly by the lightly whipped cream and tangy fruit.

The evening culminated in a smorgasbord of cheeses, served with gluten free crackers, which were not only picture perfect but unbelievably delicious.

My praise for Ellie is by no means halfhearted. The whole experience served as proof of just how great a cook and recipe designer she is, no matter what your dietary or lifestyle preference. I urge all of you to go and try the cheeses yourselves, which will soon be available to order online via the Kindaco Facebook Page. For any of you wanting to attend a supper club, follow Kind State of Mind on Instagram for updates and news about the autumn event, which is sure to be a highly enjoyable evening, for not only you and your friends, but your taste buds too.

Ellie will be teaching cheese making masterclasses at Made in Hackney this Autumn. 

Mommi: 100% Gluten Free Japanese Peruvian Dining at its Finest

One should never take the food scene in London for granted. It is eclectic, vibrant, quirky and often indulgent which makes it all the more exciting. Since realising I could not eat gluten, I feared at first what this would mean for my relationship with London’s eateries but thanks to restaurants like Mommi, which has just received accreditation from Coeliac UK, my faith is constantly being restored.

Mommi – a Japanese-Peruvian fusion restaurant – first opened its doors on Clapham High Street in South West London in 2015. I grew up and continue to live South of the river, so this location could not have been more dreamy for myself or the wonderful South London entourage of gluten free bloggers I ate with. The restaurant has a mixture of seating options from high to low tables, and an aesthetically pleasing bar complete with elegant high stools – perfect for views of the cocktail making process. Upon arrival we were seated at one of the classic round booth-style tables which line the back wall of Mommi. We all began with a BrewDog Vagabond Pale Ale after immediately spotting it on the menu with a large GF next to it – something you will not see on the main menu given all food at Mommi is now 100% gluten free. The restaurant went from a 75% gluten free menu when it launched to a no gluten zone exactly one year later: no small feat for an eatery or cuisine that historically used a lot of soy in its sauces. “The substitution process of this for Tamari really took some time to ensure there was no flavor compromise,” a Mommi spokesperson explained.

To accompany our beers, we ordered one of each appetiser after deciding we simply could not leave any out. The steamed edamame, which comes salty or spicy depending on preference, flash-fried Padron peppers with crushed sea salt and corn and lime tortillas served with smashed avocado, and a picante fresh cheese dip were the perfect start to our evening of indulgence and gave us fuel to peruse the rest of the menu. It is hard to not be shocked when presented with the menu at Mommi given the extensive list of choices, but the helpful, dynamic staff are always at the ready to answer questions or make suggestions. After much discussion, our waiter advised us to choose one of the set menu options on the menu, which is made up of sharing plates – seven to be exact. We opted for the Fuji Set Menu between three of us, and were advised to choose two more dishes to accompany it. The staff were incredibly accommodating and happily served our friend currently sticking to a Fod Map diet dishes from the delicious weekend brunch menu.

Once the feast started to arrive, we realised just how fresh the ingredients used by Mommi are. The plates were by no means small either, which was a pleasant surprise after years of frequenting London tapas bars and having to eat a large number of plates in order to feel sufficiently fed. We started with the Mixed Chirashi Sushi – a bowl full of tuna, salmon, seabass and tobiko which comes on a bed of seasoned sushi rice, topped with house tartare sauce. Alongside this rainbow-like bowl we had a platter of flame seared tuna tataki which was served with onion ponzu, warm heirloom tomatoes, hazelnuts and drizzled in truffle oil. Our fresh fish choices were by no means “traditional” – I would call them sushi with a twist and also an opportunity for me to not embarrass myself with my inefficient chopstick skills, given the fish and rice came unassembled in a bowl and laid out on fresh vegetables.

Before we could recover from our tantalising first courses, the warm Yakitori salmon with lime butter sauce, black sesame seeds and coriander cress arrived, followed swiftly by lamb cutlets Yakitori, with green tea miso, aji lomo, coriander and salsa ocopa. Both were piping hot and perfectly seasoned. Having never been a huge fan of lamb, I surprised myself when I selected the cutlets as my top dish of the night: perfectly grilled on the outside and wonderfully moist on the inside. Three of us munched away happily on our set menu and delicious traditional Peruvian Pisco Sours cocktails, whilst our fourth diner plunged into Fod Map heaven, with a plate of perfectly poached eggs atop crusty gluten free toast with smashed avocado and a generous helping of oak smoked salmon on the side.

By now we were full but simply could not say no to what awaited us. Mommi’s new and highly celebrated chicken pachamanca dish came atop sweet potato, giant peruvian corn and Rocoto peppers, wish a quinoa lime picante sauce. The braised sticky short rib of beef arrived simultaneously which could easily serve as a main dish alone for anyone wanting to invest in a single plate from the a la carte menu. It was upon tucking into these two meat options that that we realised we might just have overdone it. We ploughed on though, with no complaints as the golden dish – Nikkei tempura fish and cassava chips – arrived. The fish was flaky and wrapped in a light, crunchy batter – offset perfectly by the wasabi mayo on the side for dipping. I took one for the team and polished off the cassava chips – a delicacy I indulged in almost every day on recent trips to Cuba and Colombia where cassava or yuca act as the main starch in homes and on restaurant menus.

For all our efforts, we still could not say no to dessert, given the rather unusual and exciting situation we found ourselves in, with no sweet option off limits. We selected the passion fruit cheesecake, which was served in a petit mason jar and topped with buttery cookie crumble so good that it was hard to believe it was gluten free.

Overall, our night at Mommi could not have been better. The impeccable service means you will never go hungry nor wonder where your next course is, and nor will you fret about allergens – something which can never be underestimated when dining out. The kitchen and front of house staff went out of their way to make us feel comfortable and I am already enthusiastically awaiting my next visit, when I will indulge in a weekend bottomless brunch. This three course feast served on Saturday and Sunday is a bargain at £32.50 per person, complete with unlimited prosecco or sparkling rose. If you prefer an evening affair, step inside Mommi on a Friday or Saturday night, where you can go straight from dinner to the dance floor with DJs playing Latin tunes until the small hours.

Mommi
44-48 Clapham High Street
London SW4 7UR
Tel: 020 3814 1818
(Tables bookable via the restaurant website, bookatable or opentable)