Lyon: The Mini Gluten Free Suitcase Guide

Known as the culinary capital of France, Lyon is an absolute dream destination for any gluten free foodie. I spent a weekend here earlier this year and fit in as much food as I could in the space of 48 hours but would definitely love to head back for an extended stay. Top tip: grab a gluten free croissant and coffee to go from one of the city’s gluten free bakeries and soak up the local architecture – it reminded me so much of Paris. Bon appetit!

Les Gasteliers

What I can only describe as THE gluten free place to be in Lyon, this beautiful 100% GF bakery has it all. Incredible sandwiches, fresh bread, pizza, croissants and stunning patisserie-style cakes. These guys even have eclairs and the wonderfully almondy, elaborate Paris-Brest pastries. Whatever you do, make sure you grab one of the chocolate and custard Brioches Suisse and have a coffee before departing with a bag full of goodies for the road.

Where?
123 Rue de Sèze
69006 Lyon, France

L’Avocat Café

This cute little café is not only 100% gluten free, but both lactose and refined sugar free too. Perfect for a weekend brunch, smoothie session or a sit down with a coffee and cake in between all the sightseeing. This place is famous for its vegetarian Croque Monsieur however so you might want to get your hands on one of those! Closed on Mondays, Tuesdays, Wednesdays and Thursdays.

Where?
19 Rue Cuvier
69006 Lyon, France

Chez Grégoire

Another wonderful 100% gluten free spot, this small bakery is also entirely lactose-free. There’s a beautiful selection of delicate cakes on offer to enjoy with your coffee either there or to go. I opted for a chocolate and praline tart, which was like a work of art. There are also quiches and a selection of gluten free baking products. Closed on Mondays and Tuesdays.

Where?
6 Rue Constantine
69001 Lyon, France

Sans Gluten Pizza Epicerie

Lo and behold – the one and only fully GF pizzeria in the city of Lyon! As well as a selection of great gluten free pizzas, y’all will be ecstatic to hear that calzone is also on the menu here. There’s also a selection of gluten free flours to buy so you can try and recreate this wonderful spot’s gluten free pizza at home. Be sure to call ahead and book a table to avoid disappointment. Closed on Sundays and Mondays.

Where?
88 Gd Rue de la Guillotière
69007 Lyon, France

Epona

If you are looking for somewhere special to have dinner during your stay in Lyon, Epona is a lovely gluten free-friendly spot, located inside the stunning InterContinental Hôtel-Dieu in the city centre. This restaurant has many gluten free options on its menu and can also cater for lactose-free and vegan diets. There’s gluten free bread on offer to start, which is heated safely and separately. The menu changes seasonally and local produce is used for most of the dishes, which was a great touch. Booking a must.

Where?
Hôtel-Dieu
20 Quai Jules Courmont
69002 Lyon, France

Empanadas de Carne (Savoury Argentine Beef Pastries)

From a culinary perspective, many people associate Argentina with its prime cuts of meat and famous barbecues. Those who enjoy history meanwhile, will know that a lot of cuisine, particularly served in the capital of Buenos Aires, was inspired by Italian immigrants who began to make their way in large numbers to the South American city in the mid 1800s. Empanadas however, Argentina’s other staple foodstuff, bear resemblance to the Cornish Pasty and in fact were allegedly inspired by the English savoury treat itself.

Ever since moving back from Buenos Aires, I have been making empanadas at home and trying to recreate the flavours I would experience there multiple times a week, and sometimes even multiple times a day! Thanks to the introduction of ready to roll gluten free pastry by trusty Jus-Rol in the UK in the last couple of years, my empanada recipe is even easier to throw together and enjoy at home. Highly recommend these delicious savoury pastries as a snack or a light dinner with a side salad and a glass of Malbec, por supuesto!

Ingredients

1 x Jus-Rol Gluten Free Puff Pastry Ready Rolled Sheet (280g)
50g x Lean Beef Mince
1 x Tsp Olive Oil
1 x Small Onion, Finely Chopped
½ x Red Pepper, Finely Chopped
5 x Cherry Tomatoes, Finely Chopped
1 x Boiled Egg, Peeled and Chopped
43g x Pitted Black Olives, Chopped
2 x Eggs, Beaten (to Glaze the Empanadas)
1 x Tsp Oregano
½ x Tsp Paprika
½ x Tsp Garlic Powder
½ x Beef Stock Cube (I use Knorr)
80ml x Red Wine
Pinch Salt & Pepper

Method

  1. Heat olive oil in a saucepan over medium heat. Add the onion and red pepper and sautee until soft.
  2. Add the mince and stir well to ensure it mixes properly with the onion and pepper. Cook uncovered for around 10 minutes.
  3. Once the beef has browned, add the cherry tomatoes, black olives, oregano, paprika, garlic powder, red wine, salt & pepper. Crumble the stock cube in and stir mixture well.
  4. Reduce heat and simmer mixture, partially covered by a lid, for 1 hour. Check every 10 minutes and stir.
  5. Once the liquid in the mixture has evaporated, remove from heat. Leave the mixture to cool for around 30-40 minutes before adding the chopped boiled egg and mixing well (you do not want the beef filling to be hot when you prep the empanadas to avoid the pastry falling apart).
  6. When the beef mixture has cooled, heat the oven to 170 degrees (Fan) and line two to three baking sheets with parchment paper.
  7. On a flat surface, lightly roll out the Jus-Rol Gluten Free pastry sheet to expand slightly but do not over-roll as this will warm up the pastry and cause it to split.
  8. Using a sharp knife, divide the rolled out sheet into three columns longways and then again across, to create 9 squares, measuring around 9-10cm across and lengthways each.
  9. To fill the empanadas, place a square of the pastry in the palm of one hand and place approximately two teaspoons of the beef mixture in the middle.
  10. Using a pastry brush, spread a little of the beaten egg around the edges of the pastry. Turn the square slightly in your hand so it’s at a diagonal, and bring the top and the bottom points of the pastry together into a rough triangle shape by folding gently.
  11. To close each empanada, twist the three edges of the triangle in towards the centre of the pastry and stick down lightly with egg wash to ensure the pastry is closed (otherwise mixture will seep out of the pastry while cooking). Feel free to also gently press the back of a fork onto the edges if this makes sealing the square easier.
  12. Place each raw empanada gently on to parchment paper-lined baking trays immediately after prepping to avoid overheating the pastry in your hands, leaving several centimetres of space in between each empanada as they will expand in the oven.
  13. Using your pastry brush once more, lightly brush all the raw empanadas with the beaten egg to create a nice glaze.
  14. Bake the empanadas for 20-25 minutes or until golden brown.
  15. Leave empanadas to rest for around 15 minutes before serving.