As the daughter of a former-restaurant critic, coming across delectable new eateries has always been a passion of mine. Since finding out I could not eat gluten, my quest has become even more important, with heightened expectations to not only eat delicious food but to do so in a stress-free environment. I was delighted to find that all of my boxes were ticked after an early summer’s evening at East London’s Treves & Hyde.
Located just a hop skip and a jump from Aldgate Underground, Treves & Hyde occupies a two floor modern building. Its modest entrance takes you directly into its ode-to-Shoreditch coffee and cake offering, where head of coffee James Wise currently holds the “World’s Best” title from the Coffee Masters global competition. Head up the windy, wooden staircase and you’ve arrived in the Stockholm meets New York dining room, equipped with rustic wooden bar and floor length windows, the view from which serves as a gentle reminder that you are in fact in the City of London.
We were greeted by warm and friendly front of house staff, all of whom immediately approved of our aperitif choice – a Limoncello and champagne cocktail – which has been a best-seller since the sunshine arrived in London in May. I was immediately impressed by the staff’s knowledge of allergies and dietary requirements and moved on to my first course feeling completely at ease. I was presented with my very own gluten free starter – a small plate of lusciously red poponcino peppers stuffed with salt cod brandade, which came with a healthy dollop of saffron aioli on the side.
The poponcino peppers were a perfect stepping stone to my starter of scallop and seabass ceviche with peas and verjus. The freshness of the seafood was by no means overpowered by the citrus flavours of the ceviche broth and was incredibly moreish. I of course still had room to sample my friend’s delicately seared tuna, edamame, carrot and nori seaweed crisp – a wonderfully fragrant and melt-in-the-mouth way to start a meal.
Head chef George Tannock, who takes inspiration from an array of global flavours, goes out of his way to be as allergy-conscious as possible. This is no small feat for a restaurant that changes its menu as much as Treves & Hyde. “Even with a small menu, we always make sure to have at least one gluten free option for each course,” he told us, adding that he is happy to accommodate and adapt most dishes where possible to meet a gluten free diner’s needs. At least two vegetarian starters are also available as well as one vegan main course. This conscious effort goes hand-in-hand with George’s prediction for the future of eating. “People will start to eat less meat and fish and lean towards a plant-based diet,” he said, adding that the focus on a more balanced way of eating is becoming more prominent in the restaurant industry.
For my main course, I chose the naturally gluten free stone bass with sea kale, artichoke barigoule and seaweed hollandaise and saffron sauce – a hearty and perfectly flavoured dish which was pleasantly complemented by the array of sides we ordered. I can highly recommend the freshly shaved fennel and baby gem lettuce with a homemade ranch dressing as well as the sweet potatoes with tahini yoghurt and pomegranate. We barely had room for dessert, but could not resist trying the gluten free butterscotch creme caramel and salted popcorn: a small pot of sweet rich caramel creme topped with crunchy popcorn.
The diversity of our choices made the experience at Treves & Hyde all the more enjoyable. “Just like you can find all types of people in London, you can find all types food on our menu,” George said. Treves & Hyde has totally succeeded in becoming the seasonal flavour-serving neighbourhood restaurant that it sets out to be. The restaurant will be opening two new London locations in 2018, as well as a Paris restaurant. Book now to enjoy their express lunch, a la carte or brunch menus and I assure you you will not regret it.
Treves & Hyde
15/17 Leman Street
London E18 EN
Tel: 020 3621 8900
(Tables bookable via the restaurant website or over the phone)
Photo Credits: Mateja Osonjacki